sarvenn
08-12-2009, 22:24
Başka bir forumdan bazı bilgilere eriştim,
Burada günlük motor bakımı, after run oil olarak kullanılabilecek yağ çeşitleri, yakıtlar hakkında sıkça sorulan sorulara yanıtlar var.
Metinlerin ingilizce orjinal halini koyuyorum direk. Çok uzun olduğundan daha sonra parça parça çevirmeyi amaçlıyorum :D
Vakit buldukça da yavaş yavaş önemli noktaların çevirilerini yapacağım. Sizlerden de yardım gelirse sevinirim, sizler de istediğiniz bir yeri çevirip ekleyebilirsiniz.
Motorlar hakkında:
Bax nickli bir OS yetkilisinin yazısından alıntıdır
We have seen some posts where individuals have complained that we do not honor the O.S. warranty, or that we try every trick possible to not honor the warranty. That is nothing further from the truth! The O.S. warranty covers repair or replacement, at our option, of actual defects in parts and workmanship of the original manufacture of the engine for a period of two years from the date of original purchase. We honor that to the letter!
We do see, however, many engines come in that have damage to them from corrosion, overheating, impact damage, and so on. If we see an engine with those difficulties, we inspect them carefully to see what the actual cause may have been. However, please be aware that damage from an overheat not specifically caused by the way O.S. made the engine, or damage from corrosion are not really warranty issues.
Overheating is rarely a defect in the engine, but many engine owners do not believe that. They think that once an engine's set, they can forget it...or once they've been told a temperature by a buddy or online article, that's it...or they've been given a set number of turns and they'll be OK. Setting an engine is unique to every installation, and will change from day-to-day. It must be set for each day's demands. An overheat will result in scoring of the piston, ring, and liner, and will cause the cylinder head bolts to become loose once the engine's cooled.
Corrosion is a byproduct of using glow fuels, especially high nitro fuels. The fuel, itself, will absorb moisture from the air, and combustion products will work their way into the engine's lower end. Those combustion products include water, some gasses, and a small amount of acid...nitric and nitrous acids. These combustion products can encourage corrosion development on the steel parts of the engine. Corrosion can be prevented by aggressive use of after-run oils that will displace the fuel residues and coat the steel parts of the engine. You can use specially-bottled after-run oil, red-colored automatic transmission fluid (Dextron II or equi valent), air-tool oil, a good-quality coating machine tooling oil, non-graphite gun oil, and such. If the fuel has an oil package which contains at least 50% castor oil and the total oil in the fuel exceeds 18%, you may be able to get by without after-run oil for short periods of time. In this instance, you'll need the after-run oil to prevent gumming of the castor oil and to prevent corrosion.
At the end of the flying day, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor and run the engine at idle with the glow plug ignitor battery connected until the engine quits. Then make several attempts to start it until it will no longer fire. It will then be dry of fuel. You will not damage your engine running it in tis manner. Remove the glow plug battery connector. Open the throttle to full and inject a teaspoon or two of after-run oil into the carburetor air intake and turn the engine over by hand while you rotate it into a variety of positions. You may need to remove an air cleaner or other intake device to make access easier. A long, flexible tube on your oil can/bottle can help.
O.S. does state that you should not put a petroleum-based oil through the carburetor, but that refers to flowing it through the fuel passages. If you inject it through the carburetor air intake, you will be just fine. If you have a diaphragm pump on the engine, disconnect the pump line so that the oil does not damage the pump diaphragm.
You want to make sure the oil gets to the bearings. A few drops are useless, because there just won't be enough oil to do a good job of coating the internal parts. You cannot add too much after-run oil. If you have difficulty starting the first time at your next flying session, you've done a good job of coating the engine's internals.
We don't warranty engines from those users who ignore recommendations and choose to not take protective mesaures with their expensive equipment. Steel bearings, piston rings, liners, and bearing races all need oil to prevent corrosion between usage. Remove air filters at the end of each days running and inject oil directly into the open carb air intake. Use a starter to turn the engine over rapidly and disperse the oil throughout all engine parts. Just be careful that, if your engine is side-mounted or inverted, that you do not cause a hydraulic lock in the cylinder by allowing too much oil to build up in the cylinder.
Some fuels state that they have anti-corrosion products in them so you won't need after-run oil. We've never seen successful implementations of that. We strongly recommend the use of after-run oils in EVERY glow engine at the end of the day's flying."
Yakıtlar hakkında;
Fuelman nickli bir şahısdan alıntıdır:
Q: What makes my glow fuel go bad?
A: A couple of things can and will contribute to a glow fuel "going bad" First, lets talk about how you should store it; Fuel should never be opened untill you're ready to start using it, and after its opened it should have its exposure to the atmosphere limited as much as possible. This is because the methanol (alcohol) in our fuel is hygroscopic, which means it will soak up water like a sponge- even out of the air! To help limit the exposure, especially in warmer humid climates, once open and at the field, devise a system to block off or cap your vents to the bottle. Don't leave the vents open if you use a pump or something similar, air (and humidity) will pass through an open vent and the fuel is more exposed. Water in the fuel is not a good thing, if it gets exposed to air, it can get water in it.
Next, while storing fuel, it is important to limit the sunlight it is exposed to. During storage, for obvious reasons a cool dry DARK place is the best way to go. Nitromethane, one component that most of us have in our fuel, will for the lack of a better term degrade when exposed to sunlight. I'm not going to get technical here with the chemical reaction specifics, but limit the sunlight exposure to fuels containing nitro. But what about a trip to the field? Yes, it gets exposed to moisture (through the air) and to sunlight! So lets keep it simple: keep the lines pluged and toss a light colored cloth over the bottle so that it is shaded.
If your are a large glow fuel user, say a gallon per weekend or day, is this something to get concerned about- probably not. However if you are a less frequent flier and that gallon of fuel will last you many trips to the field, all this may help you keep your fuel as fresh as possible.
As a sidebar to this question, I have been asked numerous times if glow fuel has a shelf life. The answer is that I can not find any evidence to support weather it does or does not when it is kept unopened and tightly capped in a cool dry place. Once opened it can be a whole new ball game.
Below is a post that I will address one line item at a time. This may take a day or two to get it all together, so come on back and we'll have some answers for you.
A few more (taken from an e-mail by a new modeler)
Q: Can I add xxWxx motor oil to the fuel?- Why or why not?
A: Update to the previous answer; I actually tried mixing up a test blend and found that the generic motor oil will not stay in solution with the methanol and nitromethane. I called up Dave Geirke and he verified the fact.
Q: How come my fuel doesn't contain 2 stroke oil for my 2 stroke engine.
A: IT DOES!!! your glow fuel is designed with 2-stroke oils- the best ones out there for use in an alcohol based fuel. They are Castor oil and Synthetic Castors. Castor oil has been lubricating gasoline and alcohol based fuels since the internal combustion engine became viable. Widely used in WW I as the 2 stroke oil of choice in the rotary engines of the biplanes of the day. The 2-stroke oils you see on the shelf at the store for weed eaters and such will not work for our applications: that oil is designed to be used in gasoline in engines designed a little bit differently.
Q: Since I already left an open container of fuel out for two days in my garage should or could I use a commercial fuel stabilizer, say like the ones available to boat owners for winter storage?
A: Once glow fuel has absorbed water, its there for good for all practical purposes. The only way I know of getting absorbed water out of methanol is to use a molecular seive, something I have very little experience with. As far as fuel stabilizers go, they are designed to keep the gasoline from breaking down and turning into varnish and gumming up your boat, mower etc during long term storage. They will not absorb water, that is not the intended purpose of the stabalizer. This will not solve a glow fuel problem. If you are in a very humid area, the fuel will absorb much more water than in a dry arid climate. Run your fuel in your engine and decide if the fuel has been contaminated enough to warrant purchasing a new bottle. Keep your containers caped and in a cool dry dark place when not in use.
Q: If I add more castor oil to the fuel, will it reduce the fuels octane? or overall energy output?
A: If you add more anything to your jug of fuel, it will change the ratios of all other ingredients. For instance, you add 3 oz of castor to a new gallon of fuel, now that gallon is 131 oz, not 128. Your other ingredients are not added in proper proportion so they actually drop as a percentage of the whole. Will it hurt anything- probably not. The energy out put as you term it will be affected but if you even can notice it, it'll be a negledgable amount and not worth worring about especially since the engine will be happier.
Q: Why is it PINK?
A: Most fuel manufacturers use a dye in the finished product for a number of different reasons: Product Identity, different blends such as different uses or nitro contents. Allow the user to see how much is in his tank (important for heli's)
Q: What is the best oil ratio (castor to synthetic) mix for breaking in my xxx type engine.
A: I can see this question opening up a can of worms. Seems everybody has an opinion on the great ongoing debate of castor or synthetics.
In days of old, castor was the oil of choice with the lapped iron piston and sleeve engines and still is. Today, not as many engines are of that piston and sleeve metalurgy. Most today are either ringed piston in a steel or chrome sleeve or of an interference fit type commonly called ABC/ABN or AAC. In either type of the most modern offerings, too much oil will never hurt anything. I have, and always will recommend a minimum of 20% oil to all my customers with airplane or boat engines. Now too much castor will not hurt anything during the first gallon in any engine (break in period), after that feed your engine according to type. Ie: You're going to feed a ringed engine or an ABC type engine and in some cases a lapped iron engine.
In the ringed engines after break in (both two and four stroke) use 20% total oil with a little bit of castor (2% works great) and 18% synthetic. This is my prefered choice for any ringed engine since it is enough castor to help protect the rod journals and rust prevention on the bearings without being too much to gum up the ring after many many gallons. This holdes true for 4-strokes as well.
In ABC type engines, use more castor to offer greater scuff protection, I recommend 20% total oil with 4% of that being castor and 16% synthetic.
In lapped iron type engines such as the lapped Fox control line engines and the Fox 40 lapped engine, I recommend a very high content of castor for break in such as 29% all castor. After a thorough break in, some guys like to back down to 20% to 22% total oil with at least 50% of the oil content being castor.
Q: What is the best recipie for speed/ reliability?
A: Speed and reliability are two totally different subjects if you're refering to racing.
Obviously if you cut down on oil, your burnable components are increased, namely the methanol. Some racing fuels on the market contain less than 16% total oil and some racers have mixed up fuel with very little oil such as 4-6%, all in an effort to get the extra edge. Fuel with low oil is great for speed but longevity will diminish rapidly. All out competition racers expect to win races at the cost of racing engines.
If you want to run your sport XX46XX engine with a competition type low oil fuel in an effort to gain more performance, you may in fact ruin it. If you want a high performance engine, buy a Nelson, Jett, Rossi, MVVS or a couple others. Most these engines makers offer a sport style engine that is very high in performance. But keep in mind that even these high performance "sport" engines require a higher oil content that what competition fules usually have.
The overall answer is if you want to go faster, buy a faster engine, but you still need to properly feed it. No such sport recipies exist.
I have made fuel to compare the performance gain by cutting down the oil content. On a Super Tiger 75, my traditional 20% ringed engine oil blend at 15% nitro only turned 40 rpms less than a fuel with 17% oil. Is that a significant amount?- definatly not! however, the down side was that the lower oil fuel ran 38 degrees hotter at the maximum rpm. That's Significant!!!!
Q: What type of glow plug works best with xx% of fuel.
A: General rule of thumb:
High nitro fuels need a colder plug and,
Lower nitro fuels need a hotter plug.
4-strokes need 4-stroke plugs, they are very hot.
Heli's usually fly hot plugs.
WD-40 ve motor;
yine Bax'ten alıntıdır:
WD-40 was developed as a water-dispersant. That's what the "WD" stands for. They've promoted it as a lubricant. However, it's very light and evaporates quickly. Also, it's very good at removing rust. If you have any rust whatsoever in your engine, it will lift it and then you'll wind up with it being distributed throughout your engine the next time you run it. Rust is iron oxide, which is a dandy abrasive.
Unless you use WD-40 religiously from the first day you get your engine and after EVERY flying session, and thoroughly wet-down all of the internal parts, WD-40 won't be much use. Better to use a good-quality air-tool oil, Dextron II automatic transmission fluid, non-graphite gun oil, and the like. Yes, you can also used the branded "after-run" oils.
Burada günlük motor bakımı, after run oil olarak kullanılabilecek yağ çeşitleri, yakıtlar hakkında sıkça sorulan sorulara yanıtlar var.
Metinlerin ingilizce orjinal halini koyuyorum direk. Çok uzun olduğundan daha sonra parça parça çevirmeyi amaçlıyorum :D
Vakit buldukça da yavaş yavaş önemli noktaların çevirilerini yapacağım. Sizlerden de yardım gelirse sevinirim, sizler de istediğiniz bir yeri çevirip ekleyebilirsiniz.
Motorlar hakkında:
Bax nickli bir OS yetkilisinin yazısından alıntıdır
We have seen some posts where individuals have complained that we do not honor the O.S. warranty, or that we try every trick possible to not honor the warranty. That is nothing further from the truth! The O.S. warranty covers repair or replacement, at our option, of actual defects in parts and workmanship of the original manufacture of the engine for a period of two years from the date of original purchase. We honor that to the letter!
We do see, however, many engines come in that have damage to them from corrosion, overheating, impact damage, and so on. If we see an engine with those difficulties, we inspect them carefully to see what the actual cause may have been. However, please be aware that damage from an overheat not specifically caused by the way O.S. made the engine, or damage from corrosion are not really warranty issues.
Overheating is rarely a defect in the engine, but many engine owners do not believe that. They think that once an engine's set, they can forget it...or once they've been told a temperature by a buddy or online article, that's it...or they've been given a set number of turns and they'll be OK. Setting an engine is unique to every installation, and will change from day-to-day. It must be set for each day's demands. An overheat will result in scoring of the piston, ring, and liner, and will cause the cylinder head bolts to become loose once the engine's cooled.
Corrosion is a byproduct of using glow fuels, especially high nitro fuels. The fuel, itself, will absorb moisture from the air, and combustion products will work their way into the engine's lower end. Those combustion products include water, some gasses, and a small amount of acid...nitric and nitrous acids. These combustion products can encourage corrosion development on the steel parts of the engine. Corrosion can be prevented by aggressive use of after-run oils that will displace the fuel residues and coat the steel parts of the engine. You can use specially-bottled after-run oil, red-colored automatic transmission fluid (Dextron II or equi valent), air-tool oil, a good-quality coating machine tooling oil, non-graphite gun oil, and such. If the fuel has an oil package which contains at least 50% castor oil and the total oil in the fuel exceeds 18%, you may be able to get by without after-run oil for short periods of time. In this instance, you'll need the after-run oil to prevent gumming of the castor oil and to prevent corrosion.
At the end of the flying day, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor and run the engine at idle with the glow plug ignitor battery connected until the engine quits. Then make several attempts to start it until it will no longer fire. It will then be dry of fuel. You will not damage your engine running it in tis manner. Remove the glow plug battery connector. Open the throttle to full and inject a teaspoon or two of after-run oil into the carburetor air intake and turn the engine over by hand while you rotate it into a variety of positions. You may need to remove an air cleaner or other intake device to make access easier. A long, flexible tube on your oil can/bottle can help.
O.S. does state that you should not put a petroleum-based oil through the carburetor, but that refers to flowing it through the fuel passages. If you inject it through the carburetor air intake, you will be just fine. If you have a diaphragm pump on the engine, disconnect the pump line so that the oil does not damage the pump diaphragm.
You want to make sure the oil gets to the bearings. A few drops are useless, because there just won't be enough oil to do a good job of coating the internal parts. You cannot add too much after-run oil. If you have difficulty starting the first time at your next flying session, you've done a good job of coating the engine's internals.
We don't warranty engines from those users who ignore recommendations and choose to not take protective mesaures with their expensive equipment. Steel bearings, piston rings, liners, and bearing races all need oil to prevent corrosion between usage. Remove air filters at the end of each days running and inject oil directly into the open carb air intake. Use a starter to turn the engine over rapidly and disperse the oil throughout all engine parts. Just be careful that, if your engine is side-mounted or inverted, that you do not cause a hydraulic lock in the cylinder by allowing too much oil to build up in the cylinder.
Some fuels state that they have anti-corrosion products in them so you won't need after-run oil. We've never seen successful implementations of that. We strongly recommend the use of after-run oils in EVERY glow engine at the end of the day's flying."
Yakıtlar hakkında;
Fuelman nickli bir şahısdan alıntıdır:
Q: What makes my glow fuel go bad?
A: A couple of things can and will contribute to a glow fuel "going bad" First, lets talk about how you should store it; Fuel should never be opened untill you're ready to start using it, and after its opened it should have its exposure to the atmosphere limited as much as possible. This is because the methanol (alcohol) in our fuel is hygroscopic, which means it will soak up water like a sponge- even out of the air! To help limit the exposure, especially in warmer humid climates, once open and at the field, devise a system to block off or cap your vents to the bottle. Don't leave the vents open if you use a pump or something similar, air (and humidity) will pass through an open vent and the fuel is more exposed. Water in the fuel is not a good thing, if it gets exposed to air, it can get water in it.
Next, while storing fuel, it is important to limit the sunlight it is exposed to. During storage, for obvious reasons a cool dry DARK place is the best way to go. Nitromethane, one component that most of us have in our fuel, will for the lack of a better term degrade when exposed to sunlight. I'm not going to get technical here with the chemical reaction specifics, but limit the sunlight exposure to fuels containing nitro. But what about a trip to the field? Yes, it gets exposed to moisture (through the air) and to sunlight! So lets keep it simple: keep the lines pluged and toss a light colored cloth over the bottle so that it is shaded.
If your are a large glow fuel user, say a gallon per weekend or day, is this something to get concerned about- probably not. However if you are a less frequent flier and that gallon of fuel will last you many trips to the field, all this may help you keep your fuel as fresh as possible.
As a sidebar to this question, I have been asked numerous times if glow fuel has a shelf life. The answer is that I can not find any evidence to support weather it does or does not when it is kept unopened and tightly capped in a cool dry place. Once opened it can be a whole new ball game.
Below is a post that I will address one line item at a time. This may take a day or two to get it all together, so come on back and we'll have some answers for you.
A few more (taken from an e-mail by a new modeler)
Q: Can I add xxWxx motor oil to the fuel?- Why or why not?
A: Update to the previous answer; I actually tried mixing up a test blend and found that the generic motor oil will not stay in solution with the methanol and nitromethane. I called up Dave Geirke and he verified the fact.
Q: How come my fuel doesn't contain 2 stroke oil for my 2 stroke engine.
A: IT DOES!!! your glow fuel is designed with 2-stroke oils- the best ones out there for use in an alcohol based fuel. They are Castor oil and Synthetic Castors. Castor oil has been lubricating gasoline and alcohol based fuels since the internal combustion engine became viable. Widely used in WW I as the 2 stroke oil of choice in the rotary engines of the biplanes of the day. The 2-stroke oils you see on the shelf at the store for weed eaters and such will not work for our applications: that oil is designed to be used in gasoline in engines designed a little bit differently.
Q: Since I already left an open container of fuel out for two days in my garage should or could I use a commercial fuel stabilizer, say like the ones available to boat owners for winter storage?
A: Once glow fuel has absorbed water, its there for good for all practical purposes. The only way I know of getting absorbed water out of methanol is to use a molecular seive, something I have very little experience with. As far as fuel stabilizers go, they are designed to keep the gasoline from breaking down and turning into varnish and gumming up your boat, mower etc during long term storage. They will not absorb water, that is not the intended purpose of the stabalizer. This will not solve a glow fuel problem. If you are in a very humid area, the fuel will absorb much more water than in a dry arid climate. Run your fuel in your engine and decide if the fuel has been contaminated enough to warrant purchasing a new bottle. Keep your containers caped and in a cool dry dark place when not in use.
Q: If I add more castor oil to the fuel, will it reduce the fuels octane? or overall energy output?
A: If you add more anything to your jug of fuel, it will change the ratios of all other ingredients. For instance, you add 3 oz of castor to a new gallon of fuel, now that gallon is 131 oz, not 128. Your other ingredients are not added in proper proportion so they actually drop as a percentage of the whole. Will it hurt anything- probably not. The energy out put as you term it will be affected but if you even can notice it, it'll be a negledgable amount and not worth worring about especially since the engine will be happier.
Q: Why is it PINK?
A: Most fuel manufacturers use a dye in the finished product for a number of different reasons: Product Identity, different blends such as different uses or nitro contents. Allow the user to see how much is in his tank (important for heli's)
Q: What is the best oil ratio (castor to synthetic) mix for breaking in my xxx type engine.
A: I can see this question opening up a can of worms. Seems everybody has an opinion on the great ongoing debate of castor or synthetics.
In days of old, castor was the oil of choice with the lapped iron piston and sleeve engines and still is. Today, not as many engines are of that piston and sleeve metalurgy. Most today are either ringed piston in a steel or chrome sleeve or of an interference fit type commonly called ABC/ABN or AAC. In either type of the most modern offerings, too much oil will never hurt anything. I have, and always will recommend a minimum of 20% oil to all my customers with airplane or boat engines. Now too much castor will not hurt anything during the first gallon in any engine (break in period), after that feed your engine according to type. Ie: You're going to feed a ringed engine or an ABC type engine and in some cases a lapped iron engine.
In the ringed engines after break in (both two and four stroke) use 20% total oil with a little bit of castor (2% works great) and 18% synthetic. This is my prefered choice for any ringed engine since it is enough castor to help protect the rod journals and rust prevention on the bearings without being too much to gum up the ring after many many gallons. This holdes true for 4-strokes as well.
In ABC type engines, use more castor to offer greater scuff protection, I recommend 20% total oil with 4% of that being castor and 16% synthetic.
In lapped iron type engines such as the lapped Fox control line engines and the Fox 40 lapped engine, I recommend a very high content of castor for break in such as 29% all castor. After a thorough break in, some guys like to back down to 20% to 22% total oil with at least 50% of the oil content being castor.
Q: What is the best recipie for speed/ reliability?
A: Speed and reliability are two totally different subjects if you're refering to racing.
Obviously if you cut down on oil, your burnable components are increased, namely the methanol. Some racing fuels on the market contain less than 16% total oil and some racers have mixed up fuel with very little oil such as 4-6%, all in an effort to get the extra edge. Fuel with low oil is great for speed but longevity will diminish rapidly. All out competition racers expect to win races at the cost of racing engines.
If you want to run your sport XX46XX engine with a competition type low oil fuel in an effort to gain more performance, you may in fact ruin it. If you want a high performance engine, buy a Nelson, Jett, Rossi, MVVS or a couple others. Most these engines makers offer a sport style engine that is very high in performance. But keep in mind that even these high performance "sport" engines require a higher oil content that what competition fules usually have.
The overall answer is if you want to go faster, buy a faster engine, but you still need to properly feed it. No such sport recipies exist.
I have made fuel to compare the performance gain by cutting down the oil content. On a Super Tiger 75, my traditional 20% ringed engine oil blend at 15% nitro only turned 40 rpms less than a fuel with 17% oil. Is that a significant amount?- definatly not! however, the down side was that the lower oil fuel ran 38 degrees hotter at the maximum rpm. That's Significant!!!!
Q: What type of glow plug works best with xx% of fuel.
A: General rule of thumb:
High nitro fuels need a colder plug and,
Lower nitro fuels need a hotter plug.
4-strokes need 4-stroke plugs, they are very hot.
Heli's usually fly hot plugs.
WD-40 ve motor;
yine Bax'ten alıntıdır:
WD-40 was developed as a water-dispersant. That's what the "WD" stands for. They've promoted it as a lubricant. However, it's very light and evaporates quickly. Also, it's very good at removing rust. If you have any rust whatsoever in your engine, it will lift it and then you'll wind up with it being distributed throughout your engine the next time you run it. Rust is iron oxide, which is a dandy abrasive.
Unless you use WD-40 religiously from the first day you get your engine and after EVERY flying session, and thoroughly wet-down all of the internal parts, WD-40 won't be much use. Better to use a good-quality air-tool oil, Dextron II automatic transmission fluid, non-graphite gun oil, and the like. Yes, you can also used the branded "after-run" oils.